Selection (and fitting)

• The skating boots you choose should suit both your type of skating and your physical characteristics (are you a beginner or advanced?; tall or short?, heavy or light?, etc)
• More advanced skaters often choose all leather boots and separate blades and have them mounted by a professional mounter. Beginners may prefer less expensive pre-mounted skates [it is recommended that pre-mounted blades on non-leather soles and heels, should be attached by screws to allow blade adjustment].
• The boot leather 'upper' should be moderately stiff for beginners and become progressively stiffer for more advanced boots.
• FITTING
  Boots should be comfortable [there will be initial discomfort at ankles and 'pressure' points]. The skater's heel should fit snugly back into the heel 'cup' and the toes should not be cramped and should have room to raise slightly [In a standing position the skater's big toe should just lightly touch the toe cap]. Be sure not to bend the sole of non-bladed boots during fitting.
  Initial boot size may be determined by measurement of the skater's foot with a measuring stick [ NOTE: Jackson dealers may have the measuring stick which is specifically made for Jackson boots ]
      click here
  
  
  
• JACKSON HEAT MOLDABLE SYSTEM
  This system is a standard feature in our leather sole product line. Look for the logo!
  
• Provides a custom fit in 20 minutes
  
  JACKSON CUSTOM MADE BOOTS
• Jackson's skilled craftsmen will build a skate to your exact requirements

• OFF ICE
  DO NOT walk on boots that are not bladed. Once bladed and with skate guards on, lace up somewhat loose at top. Do knee bends and/or walk up stairs slowly and carefully. Stop this process periodically and unlace and relace skates. Do not ignore chafing or irritation - blisters could result.
• ON ICE
  Wear thin socks
  Lace and unlace boots several times before each skating session
  Lacing at top of boot should be loose
  Keep initial skating sessions short
  Do not allow pressure points to blister and become infected. Cover pressure points with moleskin, medical tape or form pads. Periodically apply vaseline to pressure points.
  If necessary, have pressure points, especially around the ankle area, 'punched out'. Your skate dealer or local orthopedic shop could help you with this.

• Dry the sole and heel area of boot after skating
• DO NOT leave boots in skate bag when not in use. Leave boots in open to air and completely dry; loosen laces and open boot 'throat' to better allow air flow [ NOTE: blades should also be dried and left with skate guards off - condensation will keep blades wet for some time - Absorbent 'terry cloth' blade covers may be left on blades and may help absorb condensation]
• Check sole and heel screws periodically. Water will follow thread and eventually soften the leather. Loose screws can be tightened by 'plugging' holes with small piece of leather or hard wood peg and reapplying screws
• Leather soles and heels should be waterproofed prior to installation of blade for best results.Also this maintenance should be continued periodically to stop water penetration into the leather and possible leather rot. Some waterproofing materials are:
  ------sole enamel [ black or white - it will build up over time and should be periodically sanded down]
  ------bees wax or similar wax-like substance [heat with hair dryer after application. Easy to apply and no build up like enamel; however more frequent applications are required]
  ------regular shoe polish [ very effective, frequent applications needed and leaves marks]